Spring in California doesn’t announce itself the way it does in the Midwest or New England. There’s no dramatic thaw, no mud season. In many parts of the state, your lawn has been semi-green all winter. But that doesn’t mean you can coast — late February and early March is when the decisions you make set the tone for the entire growing season.
Here’s what California homeowners should be doing right now.
Understand Your Grass Type First
California is one of the few states where both warm-season and cool-season grasses thrive, depending on your location:
- Southern California and Central Valley: Bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, and Zoysiagrass dominate. These are coming out of winter dormancy now and will start greening up as soil temps hit 60°F.
- Northern California and coastal areas: Tall fescue and perennial ryegrass are common. These never fully went dormant and are already growing.
If you don’t know what you have, pull a plug and compare it to photos online, or take it to your local UC Cooperative Extension office. Everything that follows depends on getting this right.
Mowing: Lower Your First Cut
Your first mow of spring should be slightly lower than your normal summer height. This removes dead blade tips and lets sunlight reach the crown of the plant where new growth starts.
- Bermudagrass: Drop to about 1 inch for the first cut, then maintain at 1.5–2 inches.
- Tall fescue: Cut to 2.5 inches initially, then keep at 3–3.5 inches through summer.
- St. Augustine: First cut at 2 inches, maintain at 2.5–3 inches.
Bag your clippings on this first low cut. After that, mulch-mow to return nutrients to the soil. If you’re unsure whether your mower is up to the task, check out our guide to dethatching and spring prep — the same principles of removing buildup apply.
Irrigation: Shift from Winter to Spring Schedule
This is where most California homeowners get it wrong. Winter rains (in a good year) let you coast with minimal irrigation. But as temperatures climb and rain tapers off, you need to transition your watering schedule gradually.
The rule of thumb: Water deeply and infrequently. Aim for about 1 inch per week total (including rainfall), applied in 2–3 sessions rather than daily light sprinkles.
- Run your sprinklers early morning (before 8 AM) to minimize evaporation.
- Check your soil moisture by pushing a screwdriver into the ground. If it slides in 6 inches easily, you’re good. If it stops short, water more.
- If you have a smart irrigation controller, update your seasonal adjustment now.
California’s water restrictions vary by district, so check your local water agency’s current rules. Many areas still enforce specific watering days.
Fertilizing: Timing Matters More Than Brand
For warm-season grasses (Bermuda, Zoysia, St. Augustine): Wait until the grass is actively growing and you’ve mowed it at least twice. Applying fertilizer to dormant or semi-dormant turf is wasted money. In most of Southern California, that means mid-March to early April.
For cool-season grasses (tall fescue, ryegrass): A light application of slow-release nitrogen fertilizer now is ideal. These grasses are in their spring growth surge and will use it efficiently.
A good starting point: 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. If you went with an organic fertilizer approach, follow the bag rate — organics release more slowly and are harder to over-apply.
Pre-Emergent Weed Control
Crabgrass is California’s spring nemesis. The window for pre-emergent application is when soil temperatures hit 55°F for several consecutive days — which in much of the state is happening right now.
Apply a granular pre-emergent and water it in within 24 hours. Key points:
- Don’t apply pre-emergent if you plan to overseed. It prevents all germination, including your new grass seed.
- Spot-treat existing broadleaf weeds (clover, dandelions) with a selective herbicide rather than blanketing the whole lawn.
- Pay special attention to edges along driveways and sidewalks where crabgrass loves to establish first.
If you’re in the Southeast or other warm regions dealing with similar timing questions, our post on spring pre-emergent timing covers the same principles.
Aeration and Overseeding
Warm-season lawns: Hold off on aeration until May or June when the grass is growing vigorously enough to recover quickly.
Cool-season lawns: Early spring aeration works well in Northern California, especially if your soil compacted over winter. Follow up with overseeding any thin or bare spots. Use a tall fescue blend that matches your existing lawn.
For bare patches larger than your hand, rough up the soil, spread seed, and keep it consistently moist for 2–3 weeks. A thin layer of compost on top helps retain moisture and gives seedlings a boost.
Watch for Pests
California’s mild winters mean pest populations don’t fully die off. Keep an eye out for:
- Grubs: If you had brown patches last fall that pulled up like loose carpet, treat with a grub preventive (containing chlorantraniliprole) in April.
- Billbugs: Common in Southern California Bermudagrass. Look for sawdust-like frass near the crown of the grass.
- Sod webworms: Check for irregular brown patches and small moths flying up when you mow at dusk.
Early detection beats reactive treatment every time. Walk your lawn weekly and actually look at it — not from the window, but up close.
The California Water Reality
Let’s be honest: water is always the elephant in the room for California lawns. If you’re questioning whether a traditional turf lawn makes sense for your property, it’s worth considering:
- Converting high-traffic areas to drought-tolerant alternatives (UC Verde buffalograss needs 75% less water than traditional turf)
- Keeping turf only where you actually use it (play areas, pets, entertaining) and converting ornamental lawn to native plantings
- Installing a rain sensor or smart controller if you haven’t already — they pay for themselves in one season
A smaller, healthier lawn beats a large, struggling one every time.
Your February-March Checklist
- ✅ Identify your grass type
- ✅ First low mow of the season (bag clippings)
- ✅ Adjust irrigation schedule upward gradually
- ✅ Apply pre-emergent (if not overseeding)
- ✅ Fertilize cool-season grasses now; wait on warm-season
- ✅ Scout for pest damage from winter
- ✅ Sharpen mower blades (dull blades tear grass, inviting disease)
Want the full regional breakdown? Our Lush Lawns: California guide covers month-by-month care schedules, grass variety recommendations, and water-smart strategies designed specifically for the Golden State.